Home Forums Moose Technical Questions HOW DO I CHANGE THE MASTER PROGRAMMING CODE ON A Z1100e

This topic contains 9 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Old EW Tech 7 years, 7 months ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
  • #4340


    I replaced my cousin's Moose Z1100e alarm system this past weekend & he did not know the Master Programming Code for his unit. He gave me the small “users manual” for the Z1100 which explanes how to “operate” the system & make changes; provided you know the master programming code. I do have the "user" codes & the system does operate very well, given it's age (installed in 1995) He also provided me with the original blue "Z1100e Program Function Map" which indicates a default user program authorization code # of: 998765; which does not work. I would also like to reprogram the entry/exit delay times to be set to 30 seconds; instead of the current 60 seconds. I would also like to delete his user codes & replace them with new ones.I also have the name & phone # for the original installation company but unfortunately, they are no longer in business. Any info you can provide will be greately appreciated. Thank You.


    Old EW Tech

    Hi Bob, welcome to the forum.

    We sent you the information required for downloading an Installation manual for your system.

    The procedure for entering Installer Programming upon power-up is described in chapter 6, paragraph 4 (page 25).

    I would suggest returning the system to Factory Defaults (page 31) giving you a known starting point.



    Thank you, EW, I'm currently printing the Z1100e Installation Manual as of this reply. I looked over the manual as per your suggestion & it doesn't appear to be too difficult to reprogram the whole system to the way I would like it to function. Lots of great info in here!

    After the manual is printed, I'll attempt to reprogram as, I have the system set up & ready to go on my work bench & it is working fine. I have all the zones jumped & a 22K ohm resistor on zone 8 so I don't get the "Supervisory Trouble" light. I also have a "fresh" battery in the unit as well.

    As I stated last night, this system has performed extremely well since 1995 when my cousin had it professionally installed as his home was being built. Over the past couple of years, the "Failure to Communicate" light had been constantly flashing & he decided to change out the system. I told him it was because he no longer had any "monitoring" service. He just does not like any system that is "proprietary."

    So I now have his & after it's reprogramed the way I like, I'm going to replace my system with his. The Z1100e is a much beefier system with more options then the one I'm currently using.

    I'll let you know how things work out. If I run into any difficulties, I hope I can count on your expertise to get it right. Maybe we can do a walk through over the phone? Please let me know. Thank you again for all the great info & help. This forum is with out a doubt the BEST on the net!



    Old EW Tech

    Thank you for the compliment for the forum; it is appreciated.

    Recommended by most manufactures, but heeded by few installers, bench testing and defaulting the control gets you off to a great start.

    You are correct, the Failure To Communicate Trouble was no-doubt due to discontinued monitoring and/or phone service.  The system is not proprietary and defaulting will disable the communicator.

    Don't tell your cousin but chances are good that the system that he gave you is better than his new one.    :)

    If you run into any problems or have questions, let us know and we'll do our best to help.



    Hi EW,

    Your right; the Z1100e is a better system then what I installed for him. I usually like to bench test this stuff because, in the past I've installed brand new systems out of the box & they didn't work. It's a real bummer to spend a couple of hours making all the connections only to have it not work properly due to a manufacturer defect.

    Anyway, I was able to reprogram most of the Z1100 without doing a total system default. Somehow, I was able to use the default code of: 998765 and, make some changes; thanks to you & the manual. I didn't know you had to press the white program button first.

    I was able to change the entry/exit times to a more reasonable 30 seconds; rather then the 60 seconds it was originally programed to. I also was able to delete all the original user codes & I entered a new master code & new user codes.

    The one problem I am having is, somehow I managed to change Zone 1 to an instant zone instead of delayed. I've read the manual & can't seem to find out how to change it back to a delayed zone. Is there a code # that has to be entered along with the user authorization code or, do I need to use the total restore/default method?

    If I have to do the total restore/default method then I guess I have to begin again from scratch, right? If so, I still don't see in the book how to set up the individual zones. I did see the # values but again, it doesn't say how to set them up. At least I couldn't find it.

    Also, what are the terminal #'s for connecting the siren? The manual is kind of confusing on this. The siren is the Moose MPI-38. I currently have it on terminals 25 & 27. The output is relatively low & the yelp seems to be too rapid as compaired to when hooked directly to a strong 12v battery.

    The wire jumpers for K1 & K2 I think are not connected correctly. Again, the book was kind of confusing. Right now, the K1 wire jumper is going from K1 terminal 21 to #30. And the other wire jumper is from K2 terminal 25 to #28. Are these the correct connections?

    I also can't get the #6 (Monitor) to activate so it beeps when a point of entry is opened. Somehow I managed to screw that up as well. I've tried to reprogram it, with no luck. Please advise. Thank you again for all your help with this.



    Old EW Tech

    I repeat, I recommend that you default the board.  Factory Default Programming will provide most of what you want.  In addition, it will clear any programming that was unique to the previous installation, correct for any programming misadventures you may have made thus far and you will save a lot of time in the long run.

    Use the default Function values shown on the Memory Map as a learning tool.  The default zone values and zone types are a key to understanding the Zone Planning Chart.  Note that Zone 1 (Delay Zone) is a value of 64.

    The siren does not connect to terminals 25 and 27.  Chances are that K1 and K2 were wired correctly.  Terminal 25 is a low current trigger that can be taken from J16 and used to control 12VDC to the siren via K1.

    I wouldn't worry about the Monitor Function just now, defaulting will no-doubt correct that as well.




    Hi Again, EW

    It's amazing what you can find out if you continually read the installation manual.  :)  

    Last night I sent you a reply in reference to the problem with Zone 1. Upon further reading the manual today, I solved the problem with Zone 1.  I also figured how to get the "beeps" back working for the key #6 Monitor.   :)   :)

    The 2 remaining problems I'm still having has to deal with the siren connections & the K1 & K2 wire jumpers. What are the terminal #'s for connecting the siren? The manual is kind of confusing on this. The siren is the Moose MPI-38. I currently have it on terminals 25 & 27. The output is relatively low & the yelp seems to be too rapid as compaired to when hooked directly to a strong 12v battery.

    The wire jumpers for K1 & K2 I think are not connected correctly. Again, the book was kind of confusing. Right now, the K1 wire jumper is going from K1 terminal 21 to #30. And the other wire jumper is from K2 terminal 25 to #28. Are these the correct connections?

    Do these relays need to be programed or, am I missing something here? There just doesn't seem to be the correct voltage.  In the K2 block, the only "alarm" output I'm getting is from the Tan wire terminal & that's where the siren output is relatively low with a rapid yelp.

    I also disabled the internal communicator (via the manual) & I will be using an external dialer instead & it will not be central monitored. The dialer is activated via the alarm siren terminals. So, that's why I'm concerned about the malfunction. It seemed way too complicated to reprogram the internal one with new phone #'s.

    By any chance, would disabling the communicator have any effect on the output of the sirens? I don't think so; being as though I was having trouble with them before the disabling.

    Other then these 2 remaining problems, the system is working perfectly. Again, thank you for all your help with this & any info provided will be greatly appreciated. You guys are the best!!



    Old EW Tech

    Don't attempt to run the siren from terminals 25 and 27 Bob or you may damage the control.

    Relays K1 and K2 can be connected a number of different ways DEPENDING on the desired result.

    Terminals 27 and 23 are triggers for their respective relays and have to be connected to J16 (usually J16 Burglar and Fire).  This will actuate the relay and the relay will power the siren.

    It's important to remember that either the +12VDC OR the Negative can be switched.  The relay is simply a switch that is completing the circuit to the siren.  I don't know how the siren was setup on the previous installation but it could have used either relay or both.

    Have you changed "the jumpers"?
    Was it set for yelp on burglary and steady for Fire?

    Tell us how it played before and we'll make it do the same.    :)

    OR for a Test while on the bench try:

    Move the wire on terminal 28 to 29 (K2, terminal 25 to terminal 29).
    Connect J16, terminal 12 to terminal 27.
    Connect J16, terminal 11 to terminal 23.
    Connect Siren Common to terminal 28.
    Connect Siren Yelp to terminal 24.
    Connect siren Steady to terminal 20.

    That should make K1 the Fire and K2 burglar for bench test purposes only.

    Note: I think that's right … I spent half the day in the dentist's chair and I'm still a little shaky.    ;D



    Hi EW,

    Thank you for the info regarding the siren hookup. I checked the wire jumpers & they were indeed, not correct. As per your advice & once again checking the installation manual, pages 12 + 16, I made the necessary corrections & I'm happy to report, the entire system is now absolutely perfect & waiting for me to install it in my home.   ;D

    One last question I do have is, once the system is "Armed" is it normal for the green "Ready To Arm" light to be off? It would seem logical.

    Once again, I want to thank you for all your help & advice. If all "service" web sites were as great as this one, the Web would be a much better place. Thanks again, EW.   ;D  I'll keep you posted on the progress once I install it in a couple of weeks from now.



    Old EW Tech

    Great, glad that you have it working.

    Yes, when armed the Ready Light will be out and the Armed Light on.

    Take good care of that Moose.    :)

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.